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Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season

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Author: Nick Heil
Publisher: Henry Holt and Co.
Category: Book

List Price: $26.00
Buy New: $14.53
You Save: $11.47 (44%)



New (35) from $14.53

Avg. Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars 12 reviews
Sales Rank: 23257

Media: Hardcover
Number Of Items: 1
Pages: 288
Shipping Weight (lbs): 1
Dimensions (in): 9.3 x 6.2 x 1.3

ISBN: 0805083103
Dewey Decimal Number: 796.522095496
EAN: 9780805083101
ASIN: 0805083103

Publication Date: April 29, 2008
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Customer Reviews:
Showing reviews 6-10 of 12
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3 out of 5 stars good, not great   July 9, 2008
 1 out of 2 found this review helpful

very good book... i got caught up in this after reading kraukaer's (sp) book, and although this one is not to that level, i enjoyed it


3 out of 5 stars Supplements the documentary   May 13, 2008
 1 out of 2 found this review helpful

If you watched the documentary, you will enjoy reading a more behind the scenes look at what was going on during the filming. That is the pro of this book. Unfortunately, it is filled with many more cons.

The writing is not fluid, becomes quite boring at times, needs copy editing (as many others have already pointed out with firm examples) and, most bothersome to me, doesn't really hold true to its book summary. The book itself jumps around tremendously from one Everest season to another rather than staying with the one it summarizes. While this is done for background on how the mountain became "controversial" it lends itself more to a dissertation on the seasons of Everest rather than the issue most people will buy the book for - namely the death of David Sharp.

In addition, it is written almost as propaganda in support of Brice (the guide in charge of expedition that was filmed). I am a fan of Brice, feel he has done amazing things on Everest for many many teams rather than just his own. His actions this particular season needed no justification and while this is said in the book, the author spends considerable time trying to convince his readers of the same. I found it irritating that he kept trying to defend Brice (who, again, needed no defending) rather than just telling the story.

Final verdict: if you enjoyed the television show, you will enjoy reading more about the season events on Everest. If you are a reader of adventure books or Everest chronicles, you'll likely find this book exactly what it is - a quick, thrown together analysis by someone grabbing on to the very commercialism of Everest he complains of.



4 out of 5 stars Safety not in numbers   May 6, 2008
 5 out of 6 found this review helpful

For the reader fascinated by Mt. Everest, this book provides a very interesting status report on the current commercial climbing scene there. It seems each year that the present permit system continues it is a set-up for tragedies such as what happened to British climber David Sharp plus incredible survival stories like that of Australian Lincoln Hall. As anyone knows who has been there, Everest has a magical allure but at the same time the margin for error or inadequate preparation is slim. The account of 2006 on the Northeast ridge makes for riveting reading. At the same time, the account points out a glaring need for change such as a quota system and some serious climbing prerequisites. Philosophically does one really want to stand in line on a route where progress is slowed and risks increased by some "climbers" who probably shouldn't be on the mountain in the first place. On Everest, the stakes are too high.


5 out of 5 stars Excellent narrative; informative and compelling.   May 6, 2008
I pre-ordered this book immediately after watching The Discovery Channel documentary: "Everest Beyond the Limit". It is an excellent companion to the documentary giving very insightful information on the tragedy of 1996. I really re-evaluated how I felt about Russell Brice and the sherpas through this book. It is always fascinating to read about this world on Everest that most of us cannot ever visit. I almost felt like I was reading about a story from another planet! If you love Everest but cannot ever climb it, buy this book to visit this amazing place...it is a wonderful read and a perfect addition to my ever growing mountaineering library.


4 out of 5 stars chilling yet fascinating real life investigative story   May 3, 2008
 5 out of 12 found this review helpful

In 2006, eleven climbers died trying to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. The most famous fatality was David Sharp who was left near the top still alive while forty other people continued their ascent. One week later, Lincoln Hall was left to die at the same spot that Sharp died; he survived that night without shelter leading to speculation re Sharp.

Nick Heil investigates the true story of what went wrong on the Everest climb in the deadliest year since 1996. He makes the case that some ruthless commercial operators are making increasing access available but at the cost of dramatic increase in risk. Readers will be hooked by Mr. Heil's passion for mountain climbing while horrified by the avarice of some to take advantage of the obsession of many advocates to claim they reached the top of the world. The author points out rescue is usually impossible and can endanger others; while he also defends operator Brice who was accused of abandoning Sharp to die on the mountain's Death Zone. However, Mr. Heil also rips less conscientious operators like the guide who failed to assist a confused Thomas Weber, who other climbers felt could be rescued. This is chilling yet fascinating as Mr. Heil provides a lucid account of the deaths on the DARK SUMMIT.

Harriet Klausner


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